Vintage Dooney & Bourke Tags, Labels, and Fobs Guide
- The Velvet Muzzle
- 3 hours ago
- 7 min read
Today we’re sharing our Vintage Dooney & Bourke Tags, Labels, and Fobs Guide.
At The Velvet Muzzle, we believe that true luxury never fades—it simply deserves a second chance.
We specialize in restored preloved vintage luxury bags, giving them a second life. Some of the bags we restore are kept in our personal collection, while others are offered for sale on our website at www.thevelvetmuzzle.com.
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Vintage Dooney & Bourke Tags, Labels, and Fobs Guide
If you’re a fan of vintage Dooney & Bourke bags—or just starting to fall down that rabbit hole—you’ve probably realized that their tags, labels, and fobs are more than just decorative. They’re actually some of the most helpful clues we use when it comes to trying to date and authenticate a bag.
While we’re not Dooney & Bourke handbag experts or historians, our experience in acquiring and restoring these bags has taught us a few things. Over time, we've gotten pretty good at identifying a genuine vintage Dooney and estimating the approximate age of a bag in hand.
In this article, we’re pulling together what we’ve learned about how Dooney & Bourke labeled their bags over time—especially during their now-vintage All Weather Leather (AWL) years.
FOB Charms on Vintage Dooney & Bourke Bags
The fob or hanging charm on vintage Dooney & Bourke bags can be used to help identify the era and style of the bag. Granted, many vintage Dooney's are missing their fobs, or have the wrong fob attached, they're still important when trying to age and authenticate a bag. Over the years, the brand has used different types of fobs, each with its distinct characteristics:
1. The Brass Rectangle Fob (Very Early 1980s)
One of the earliest identifying features of very early vintage Dooney & Bourke bags is the solid brass rectangular fob. This fob is fairly large and features a rectangular shape with a stylized “DB” logo in the center—the “D” appears reversed, sitting next to the “B”. Below the logo, “Dooney & Bourke” is engraved in a clean, simple typeface. These fobs were attached using an authentic leather strap, usually looped through a hardware ring. They were often found on bags with embossed or stamped branding directly on the leather interior of the bag.
2. The Brass Oval Fob (Early 1980s)
One of the key identifying features of vintage Dooney & Bourke bags from this period is the solid brass oval fob, introduced in the early 1980s. This fob has a distinctive oval shape, with a stylized “DB” logo in the center—the “D” appears reversed, sitting next to the “B.” Around the edges, you’ll see “Dooney” engraved along the top and “Bourke” along the bottom.
The back of the fob is completely blank, with no additional text or markings. These fobs were also attached using an authentic leather strap, usually looped through a hardware ring. They were often paired with the green sewn-in tag found on some early Dooney bags, or appeared on bags with the red, white, and blue “Dooney & Bourke Made in USA” fabric tag, or on bags with no interior tag. This version of the fob is solid, weighty, and made with high-quality casting—a true reflection of the craftsmanship from Dooney’s early All Weather Leather era.
3. The Brass Duck Fob (Early 1990s)
By the early 1990s, Dooney & Bourke introduced their now-iconic brass duck fob, a hallmark of many classic All Weather Leather bags from this era. This version is solid brass and oval in shape, featuring a side-profile duck as the central design element.
The duck faces to the right, with a clearly defined eye and a slight gap between its bill and body, perched against a textured background. Around the outer edge, you’ll see “Dooney & Bourke” engraved across the top and “All Weather Leather®” across the bottom, complete with the registered trademark symbol. The back of this fob is completely blank, with no engraving or markings.
These fobs were attached to bags using an authentic leather strap, usually looped through a hardware ring. They were often paired with the red, white, and blue “Dooney & Bourke Made in USA” fabric tags. The sharp detail, weighty feel, and solid brass construction make this fob a helpful clue in identifying and dating a bag to the early 1990s.
Things to Look For:
Vintage fobs are solid brass, with a noticeable weight and crisp, clean detailing. It’s one sided and will never have a duck or logo on both sides. If a fob feels lightweight, rough, is seamed, or the engraving appears blurry or poorly defined, that could be a red flag—especially if other details on the bag seem off.
Labels and Tags on Vintage Dooney & Bourke Bags
The label or tag on vintage Dooney & Bourke bags is another key feature that helps identify the era and style of the bag. Over the years, the brand has used different types of markings, labels, and tags, each with its distinct characteristics:
1. No Tag - Stamped Leather Logo (1981–1982)
In the earliest days of Dooney & Bourke’s line (around 1981–1982), bags didn’t have any sewn-in labels. Instead, the “DB” logo was embossed or stamped directly into the leather—often on the interior below the zipper pocket. The logo featured the signature reversed “D” next to the “B,” with “Dooney & Bourke” printed below. This was pre-AWL. These early pieces are very rare and finding one in good condition is a true treasure!
2. Green Satin Tag (1983–1984)
Dooney & Bourke introduced their first sewn-in fabric labels in the early 1980s. These early green satin tags were rectangular, relatively large, and sewn flat into the interior of the bag. The design featured “Dooney & Bourke” in a light color across the top, with a stylized red “DB” logo in the center—featuring the signature reversed “D” next to the “B.” Below that, the tag read “Made in USA”, also in a light color. These tags are a hallmark of Dooney’s early production years and are now fairly rare.
These tags can be a strong indicator that a bag was made during Dooney’s very early production years.
3. Red, White & Blue Tag with Serial Number (Mid-1980s–1990s)
By the mid-1980s, Dooney & Bourke introduced the red, white, and blue cloth tag that most collectors recognize today. These tags were typically sewn into a seam or into the leather trim of the bag. The tag itself is white. The front of the tag has a red border and reads “Dooney & Bourke, Inc.” with “Made in USA” printed beneath it, both in blue. On the reverse side, you’ll find a unique serial number, which was first introduced during this era. The serial number typically starts with “A” or “B”, indicating the bag was made in the USA. If a bag from this period is missing its tag, serial number, or if the tag feels off in terms of material, stitching, or placement, it’s worth taking a closer look. Many bags from this era are missing their tags, so that shouldn't be the only factor used to date or authenticate a bag.
Trim on Vintage Dooney & Bourke Bags
The trim on vintage Dooney & Bourke bags is another key feature that helps identify the era and style of the bag. Over the years, the brand has used different types of leather trim, each with its distinct characteristics:
1. British Tan Trim
One of the most iconic and widely recognized trims on vintage Dooney & Bourke bags is the British Tan leather. This classic color is a rich, warm brown with a natural patina that develops beautifully over time. British Tan is known for its durability and often complements the signature All Weather Leather (AWL) body of the bags, giving them a timeless, sophisticated look.
2. Burnt Cedar Trim
Another distinctive trim used by Dooney & Bourke is Burnt Cedar, which has a deep, reddish-brown hue. This color offers a slightly richer and darker appearance compared to British Tan, and it often appears on bags made during the 1980s and early 1990s. Like British Tan, Burnt Cedar trim shows off the natural patina over time, enhancing the vintage appeal of the bag.
3. Matching Trim
Dooney & Bourke also offered bags with matching trim, where the leather trim was the same color as the bag itself. This style of trim was typically available in black, navy, and red, providing a more uniform, sleek appearance. These bags were less common than those with contrasting trims, but they offered a polished, elegant look.
In Summary: Why It Matters
Knowing what to look for on a vintage Dooney & Bourke bag—whether it's the fob, label, tags or trim—can help you:
Authenticate a bag before buying
Date a bag to a particular era or collection
Appreciate the craftsmanship and design evolution over time
This guide is far from exhaustive, but it highlights the most common details we come across when restoring vintage Dooneys. We hope it helps you better understand—and fall a little more in love with—these beautiful bags.
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